Good mowing practices are a very important part of looking after your lawn. Follow our guide and you won’t go wrong.
Cutting height: The first thing to understand is there are two different groups of turf grasses; fine leaved grasses, the varieties used on golf greens and some ornamental lawns and the standard courser leaved grasses, these varieties are used on the vast majority of domestic lawns as well as football and rugby pitches, and golf fairways. We will advise you what kind of grasses your lawn is comprised of when we carry out your Lawn Survey Report. This is the first thing we do before treating any lawn, it is always free of charge.
Standard courser leaved grasses should be cut to a height of 24 – 36mm (1’’ – 1 ½’’) during the summer months and 36 – 48mm (1 ½’’ – 2’’) in the spring winter and autumn. In dry spells raise the cutting height to 48 – 72mm (2” – 3“)
Fine leaved grasses should be maintained at a height of 6 – 12mm ( ¼’’ – ½’’ ) during the summer months and 12 – 18mm ( ½’’ – ¾’’) in the spring, winter and autumn. In dry spells raise the cutting height to 24 – 36mm (1” – 1 ½“).
In drought conditions DO NOT cut.
Cutting frequency: The basic principle is the smaller amount of grass removed on each cut, the happier the turf is. This is why the country’s top golf courses mow their greens every single day! This is clearly not practical for most of us, but we should always remember the principal and when your turf is growing more quickly, cut it more regularly. Never remove more than half from the length of the grass in one cut, this puts the turf under considerable stress. A good rule of thumb is cut every 2 weeks in spring and autumn, every week during summer and every 1 – 2 months during winter.
Always remove grass clippings, leaving them on will cause uneven growth and a more favourable environment for lawn disease.
Sharpen or replace your blade each year. A blunt blade will bruise and tear the grass and lead to discolouration.
Clean the underneath of the mower, otherwise it can lead to blockages which cause clippings to remain on the lawn.
Raise the cutting height in dry weather and DO NOT cut in drought conditions.
There are many features to think about when choosing a lawnmower, but you should start by thinking about size. A general rule of thumb is that the bigger your lawn, the bigger your mower should be.
Different types of lawnmower
There are many different types of lawnmower, but fundamentally, almost all lawnmowers fit into two categories – rotary mowers and cylinder mowers.
Rotary lawnmowers work quite simply by rapidly spinning a blade to cut grass. They’re heavier, but provide more power. They’re generally a better choice for large lawns, as well as long, overgrown and unruly grass.
They’re the most common type and there’s a greater variety of rotary models to choose from. Most have wheels, but there are also hover lawnmowers available which float on air to make mowing lawns with slopes and uneven areas easier.
Blades are easily removed for sharpening.
To create stripes, a rotary mower must have a roller attached.
Cylinder lawnmowers use a barrel of rotating blades with a fixed blade at the base. The barrel turns as you move forward, trapping blades of grass and cutting them against the fixed blade.
They offer a finer, more precise cut, and are a good choice for ornamental, frequently mowed lawns, comprised of luxury grasses. They aren’t suitable for cutting long grass. Traditional models have no motor, which makes them much quieter and cheaper to run. But faster, motorised models are also available.
Cylinder mower are the best choice for creating perfect long lasting stripes.
These are perfect for lawns with an uneven surface or with slopes. They hover on a cushion of air, making them easier to manoeuvre.
Self-propelling mowers take the hard work out of mowing. They move themselves forward when you press the handle, reducing the hard work. They can be cylinder or rotary.
If the thought of mowing your lawn is starting to feel like a lot of effort, let a robot do it. Robotic lawnmowers use sensors to move instinctively across your lawn, so you don’t have to lift a finger.
Ride on mower:
A ride on mower is great for an extra-large lawn. However unless your lawn is huge, a large self-propelled rotary mower would be a better choice, as they deliver a closer and more precise cut that a ride on.
The biggest choice you have to make is whether to choose electric or petrol, and each type has their advantages and disadvantages…
Electric lawnmowers are lighter than petrol mowers and cheaper to run. They’re not as powerful, making them suitable for small to medium lawns.
Many models plug into your mains, so you’ll probably need an extension cord to run the wire across your garden. Some have an inbuilt battery, so no need for cables, but make sure they can carry enough charge to last the whole job.
Petrol lawnmowers provide you with more power and endurance. They’re designed for tackling large lawns as well as grass that’s thick or overgrown.
They are heavier, so while they’ll cut more at once, they require more effort to manoeuvre. There are self-propelling models available that can reduce the effort required.
And if your lawn is huge, then you can always opt for a ride on model.
Petrol mowers are heavier so you may be more likely to push the mower rather than carry the mower to and from the lawn. Look for a mower with easy height adjustment so you can lift the deck clear of the ground while transporting. Also, look for large robust wheels that make pushing easier and can manage steps.
5 steps to servicing your petrol lawnmower
It’s really easy to carry out basic maintenance on your lawnmower, carrying out just a few basic tasks will give you a mower that lasts for years.